Kenya
We entered Kenya smoothly through the Malaba border post and our plan being to move straight north into Ethiopia and Sudan and then work our way back south.
The road from the border to the town of Eldoret was in bad state and we kept on hoping for it to get better, but the " speed bumps" just got bigger and closer to each other with potholes the size of craters in between.
We hit Eldoret at peak hour traffic as everybody finished the day’s work and managed to buy bread and fruit at the local grocery store after drawing some Kenyan money and were ready to head towards the Naiberi campsite before
dark. Our first camping in Kenya, and we soon realised camping standards in Kenya are of a lesser standard than what we had so far. The next morning we headed back to Eldoret to get internet, but after about an hour and a
simcard registered to Rui’s name we gave up on it and left to Nakuru in the hope of bigger success.
The road conditions did not improve, but the scenery through the Rift valley made up for it and the farms alongside the road were big, properly fenced and well worked and the implements were of standards we haven't seen in
East Africa for a long time.
Alongside the road were almost no stalls and vendors and as we came closer to towns the most beautiful potatoes, carrots, beetroot, cabbage, pumpkins and fruit were sold.
As we entered Nakuru there were large dealerships with farming implements and tractors. The Kivu resort was the
only campsite in town as the lake Nakuru NP had been closed due to the flooding of the lake. We camped for the
second night with the group of motorcycle riders from Germany, this time on the soccer field and once again without any electricity.
However we managed to negotiate with management to open up a room for a hot shower.
We attempted the internet once again and tried Orange this time, Rui got another sim registered to his name without any internet connection, but a pathetic explanation on how the service dips and we must just be patient. Not good enough! We set off to try a 3rd supplier, also here it did not go smooth as we were quoted one price but due to the staff members mishap were required to pay more, but at least we got a connection.
Early the next morning we headed further north to Isiolo. We crossed the Equator several times on the winding passes and some of the landscape scenery gave one the feeling of you having been here before, so much it resembles SA.
We drove pass huge rose farms and through fertile valleys with show quality fresh produce. The road conditions were slightly better and just before sunset we reached Isiolo after a coffee break at Nanyuki. At a police checkpoint outside Isiolo a police officer welcomed us with: "Welcome to the safest place on earth, 30 kms from here on your way to Marsabit you will have to get an armed escort". We were stunned. We got to Gaddisa campsite to find it even more rundown than described in the guides, but with a room opened to us for ablutions we stayed quite comfortably.
We left the sights of Mount Kenia behind and headed for Marsabit.
The first 125 km’s were easy going on a new Chinese tarred road and then the corrugation started. We took it
slowly and soon came across the first herds of camels. We spotted giraffe, ostrich and the Gerenuck (giraffe neck gazelle) along the way as well as a big group of vultures at a giraffe carcass alongside the road and Rui could try out his brand new camera. We came across the colourfully dressed and beaded Samburu, Gabra and Boran people alongside the road with their herds of short horned cattle, sheep goats and camels. As we drove through the Chalbi
desert landscape we saw the colourful pink flowers of the desert roses growing on the rocky outcrops and the Doum palms, the only member of the palm family with a divided trunk along dry riverbeds.
After a drive of about 6 hours we pulled into Henry's campsite on a working farm on the outskirts of Marsabit. We were surprised by the two huge wind turbines generating electricity for the town as it just seemed so out of place in the desert, but use technology to your advantage if you can. With the promise of a warm shower, starry sky and the sound of the birds and bells on the cattle all seemed so peacefully, but then you spotted the herdsman with an AK 47
and once again realise the dangers of Africa, all be it only amongst the tribes about grazing rights.
After watching the full moon rising and the best starry sky we have seen in Africa we went to bed. The next morning with the sun rising and the famous mist of Marsabit rolling in we left to the border post of Moyale to Ethiopia. The
notorious Marsabit Moyale road did justice to its reputation as it is corrugation and potholes all the way.
The countryside was harsh and rugged and only the far and few in between vehicles from the front and the far apart villages were a change to the nothingness.
As we drove through the last 3villages before the border post of Moyale we got an eerie feeling as they were completely abandoned. Schools empty, huts closed and no cattle or camels to be seen anywhere. As we came to police checkpoint we were informed that there were very recent tribal clashes and the locals had moved to
Ethiopia.
We reached the Kenyan border post of Moyale at lunchtime and after waiting for the official to come back we crossed to the Ethiopian side of Moyale (the town is situated over two countries) we were just in time for the Ethiopian lunchtime and waited for the officials to be back to their posts at eight o clock.
Ethiopians not only work on a different calendar but their clock also differs from all other countries, as their clock runs from 6to6. 7o'clock being 1. On their calendar we entered, Ethiopia on 29/5/2006!
After 3 weeks in Ethiopia.
Kenya second time around.
As we entered Kenya for the second time we were well aware of what to expect and with clouds building on the horizon we knew we needed to cross the Moyale - Marsabit section before the annual long rains started.
We drove through the abandoned villages and police roadblocks with some heavy armed officers and even the odd helicopter flying over.
One could sense the tense atmosphere and the road conditions have seriously deteriorated since we last travelled it. It was just corrugation and super fine dust. Every so often it was a better drive off the road than on
it. It took us 7 hours in scorching heat to do 250 kms to Marsabit and just before sunset we arrived at
Henry's camp and had the most appreciated hot shower before we made supper. With the thought of another day of
similar road conditions waiting the next day we went for an early departure the next morning trying to beat the heat.
We drove off in heavy overcast conditions with the threat of rain coming down any time soon.
As we drove through the desert the waterholes and dams were by now all dried up and the camels were walking up clouds of dust through the vast dry emptiness. By noon we cleared the last police checkpoint, just in time for the first drops of rain, and with some spare time gained we headed south to Nanyuki with the set idea of chocolate cake and tea. We found a gem of a campsite with great facilities outside time at Batians view and spent a whole day cleaning up the superfine powder dust and the eight days of constant driving washing. The well deserved rest day and facilities went down well and we enjoyed the beautiful scenery of woods, lawnsand water stream at the foothills of Mount Kenya.
We watched the East African Colobus monkeys swinging in the tree tops and after visiting the cheese farm once more we set sails for Nairobi. Only to be distracted to the southern foothills once again by diverting to Castle Forest Lodge with intentions of a quick cup of coffee, but we enjoyed the greenery so much after the long time of drought and desert that we decided to stay over once more. We hiked to the Twin Falls and just enjoyed the view of luscious green tree ferns and banana trees and the water tumbling down the falls, just to repeat it only a few metres further on.
We attempted Nairobi once again the next morning and all too soon we were on a dual carriage highway with fly over’s and stuck in full blown Nairobi traffic for a few hours to reach Hartebeest Campsite that is indicated as Wildebeest on T4A.
Upon arrival we realised something is not right but on all blogs we read fellow travellers were ranting and raving about the campsite and facilities at Wildebeest. After two days of exploring the local area we took the road to look for the real Wildebeest. After lunch at the Karin Bliksen garden restaurant we managed to find the right camping spot and decided to move there where we enjoyed a few days with fellow overlanders from Germany, Australia and the Czech Republic. On Sunday we went on invitation of a local lady, Maria, on a hike with a group to Lake Alamentaita and there we visited the hot springs with a very pleasant group. The local people believe the springs, believed by the locals to be a cure for Aids and as we visited there were quite a few locals bathing and washing in dugged " baths" of volcanic rocks in the pleasant hot waters ciphering through. It was a tough hike for us after spending so long on the road with almost no exercise and upon returning to the campsite after supper we were ready for a hot shower and the bed. It has been raining all weekend on and off and once again relieved to have made the Moyale Marsabit stretch just in time before the dreaded long rains we had to reconsider our next destination from here.
The road from the border to the town of Eldoret was in bad state and we kept on hoping for it to get better, but the " speed bumps" just got bigger and closer to each other with potholes the size of craters in between.
We hit Eldoret at peak hour traffic as everybody finished the day’s work and managed to buy bread and fruit at the local grocery store after drawing some Kenyan money and were ready to head towards the Naiberi campsite before
dark. Our first camping in Kenya, and we soon realised camping standards in Kenya are of a lesser standard than what we had so far. The next morning we headed back to Eldoret to get internet, but after about an hour and a
simcard registered to Rui’s name we gave up on it and left to Nakuru in the hope of bigger success.
The road conditions did not improve, but the scenery through the Rift valley made up for it and the farms alongside the road were big, properly fenced and well worked and the implements were of standards we haven't seen in
East Africa for a long time.
Alongside the road were almost no stalls and vendors and as we came closer to towns the most beautiful potatoes, carrots, beetroot, cabbage, pumpkins and fruit were sold.
As we entered Nakuru there were large dealerships with farming implements and tractors. The Kivu resort was the
only campsite in town as the lake Nakuru NP had been closed due to the flooding of the lake. We camped for the
second night with the group of motorcycle riders from Germany, this time on the soccer field and once again without any electricity.
However we managed to negotiate with management to open up a room for a hot shower.
We attempted the internet once again and tried Orange this time, Rui got another sim registered to his name without any internet connection, but a pathetic explanation on how the service dips and we must just be patient. Not good enough! We set off to try a 3rd supplier, also here it did not go smooth as we were quoted one price but due to the staff members mishap were required to pay more, but at least we got a connection.
Early the next morning we headed further north to Isiolo. We crossed the Equator several times on the winding passes and some of the landscape scenery gave one the feeling of you having been here before, so much it resembles SA.
We drove pass huge rose farms and through fertile valleys with show quality fresh produce. The road conditions were slightly better and just before sunset we reached Isiolo after a coffee break at Nanyuki. At a police checkpoint outside Isiolo a police officer welcomed us with: "Welcome to the safest place on earth, 30 kms from here on your way to Marsabit you will have to get an armed escort". We were stunned. We got to Gaddisa campsite to find it even more rundown than described in the guides, but with a room opened to us for ablutions we stayed quite comfortably.
We left the sights of Mount Kenia behind and headed for Marsabit.
The first 125 km’s were easy going on a new Chinese tarred road and then the corrugation started. We took it
slowly and soon came across the first herds of camels. We spotted giraffe, ostrich and the Gerenuck (giraffe neck gazelle) along the way as well as a big group of vultures at a giraffe carcass alongside the road and Rui could try out his brand new camera. We came across the colourfully dressed and beaded Samburu, Gabra and Boran people alongside the road with their herds of short horned cattle, sheep goats and camels. As we drove through the Chalbi
desert landscape we saw the colourful pink flowers of the desert roses growing on the rocky outcrops and the Doum palms, the only member of the palm family with a divided trunk along dry riverbeds.
After a drive of about 6 hours we pulled into Henry's campsite on a working farm on the outskirts of Marsabit. We were surprised by the two huge wind turbines generating electricity for the town as it just seemed so out of place in the desert, but use technology to your advantage if you can. With the promise of a warm shower, starry sky and the sound of the birds and bells on the cattle all seemed so peacefully, but then you spotted the herdsman with an AK 47
and once again realise the dangers of Africa, all be it only amongst the tribes about grazing rights.
After watching the full moon rising and the best starry sky we have seen in Africa we went to bed. The next morning with the sun rising and the famous mist of Marsabit rolling in we left to the border post of Moyale to Ethiopia. The
notorious Marsabit Moyale road did justice to its reputation as it is corrugation and potholes all the way.
The countryside was harsh and rugged and only the far and few in between vehicles from the front and the far apart villages were a change to the nothingness.
As we drove through the last 3villages before the border post of Moyale we got an eerie feeling as they were completely abandoned. Schools empty, huts closed and no cattle or camels to be seen anywhere. As we came to police checkpoint we were informed that there were very recent tribal clashes and the locals had moved to
Ethiopia.
We reached the Kenyan border post of Moyale at lunchtime and after waiting for the official to come back we crossed to the Ethiopian side of Moyale (the town is situated over two countries) we were just in time for the Ethiopian lunchtime and waited for the officials to be back to their posts at eight o clock.
Ethiopians not only work on a different calendar but their clock also differs from all other countries, as their clock runs from 6to6. 7o'clock being 1. On their calendar we entered, Ethiopia on 29/5/2006!
After 3 weeks in Ethiopia.
Kenya second time around.
As we entered Kenya for the second time we were well aware of what to expect and with clouds building on the horizon we knew we needed to cross the Moyale - Marsabit section before the annual long rains started.
We drove through the abandoned villages and police roadblocks with some heavy armed officers and even the odd helicopter flying over.
One could sense the tense atmosphere and the road conditions have seriously deteriorated since we last travelled it. It was just corrugation and super fine dust. Every so often it was a better drive off the road than on
it. It took us 7 hours in scorching heat to do 250 kms to Marsabit and just before sunset we arrived at
Henry's camp and had the most appreciated hot shower before we made supper. With the thought of another day of
similar road conditions waiting the next day we went for an early departure the next morning trying to beat the heat.
We drove off in heavy overcast conditions with the threat of rain coming down any time soon.
As we drove through the desert the waterholes and dams were by now all dried up and the camels were walking up clouds of dust through the vast dry emptiness. By noon we cleared the last police checkpoint, just in time for the first drops of rain, and with some spare time gained we headed south to Nanyuki with the set idea of chocolate cake and tea. We found a gem of a campsite with great facilities outside time at Batians view and spent a whole day cleaning up the superfine powder dust and the eight days of constant driving washing. The well deserved rest day and facilities went down well and we enjoyed the beautiful scenery of woods, lawnsand water stream at the foothills of Mount Kenya.
We watched the East African Colobus monkeys swinging in the tree tops and after visiting the cheese farm once more we set sails for Nairobi. Only to be distracted to the southern foothills once again by diverting to Castle Forest Lodge with intentions of a quick cup of coffee, but we enjoyed the greenery so much after the long time of drought and desert that we decided to stay over once more. We hiked to the Twin Falls and just enjoyed the view of luscious green tree ferns and banana trees and the water tumbling down the falls, just to repeat it only a few metres further on.
We attempted Nairobi once again the next morning and all too soon we were on a dual carriage highway with fly over’s and stuck in full blown Nairobi traffic for a few hours to reach Hartebeest Campsite that is indicated as Wildebeest on T4A.
Upon arrival we realised something is not right but on all blogs we read fellow travellers were ranting and raving about the campsite and facilities at Wildebeest. After two days of exploring the local area we took the road to look for the real Wildebeest. After lunch at the Karin Bliksen garden restaurant we managed to find the right camping spot and decided to move there where we enjoyed a few days with fellow overlanders from Germany, Australia and the Czech Republic. On Sunday we went on invitation of a local lady, Maria, on a hike with a group to Lake Alamentaita and there we visited the hot springs with a very pleasant group. The local people believe the springs, believed by the locals to be a cure for Aids and as we visited there were quite a few locals bathing and washing in dugged " baths" of volcanic rocks in the pleasant hot waters ciphering through. It was a tough hike for us after spending so long on the road with almost no exercise and upon returning to the campsite after supper we were ready for a hot shower and the bed. It has been raining all weekend on and off and once again relieved to have made the Moyale Marsabit stretch just in time before the dreaded long rains we had to reconsider our next destination from here.
