As we left Tanzania behind us and entered into Rwanda at Rusumo, the brand new border post being built at Resumo. 
 We were immediately impressed by the smooth and efficient process irrespective of the construction going on all around us. 
We immediately crossed the waterfall and proceeded pass blue tented refugee camps to the green country hillside on a lovely tarred road. 
All too soon we realised we were traveling on the wrong side of the road (left) with oncoming traffic  heading head on for us. 
Driving on the right hand side was going to have its challenges as T4A didn't warn or accommodate this or the "wrong" way around the roundabouts.
Except for the odd other vehicle from time to time the road was quiet and we were sightseeing the lovely countryside with its patchwork of fields against the hills and the rice paddies in the low lying areas.  The villages and towns were completely different from what we have seen through the countries we have travelled up to now. No plastic bags were seen anywhere, no litter of any nature around, the shops were proper built shops, no pavement trading and a patch of lawn and gardens at most of the residential properties.
Kigali delivered even more pleasant surprises. Ordered traffic, beautiful gardens, wide streets, traffic lights that flash the seconds before changing and residential estates and properties that take your breath away. 
We soon realised Garmin and T4A were not to relying around
here as we kept on missing the "One love" accommodation and campsite, we could see it from the road, but were taken around every time and that still on the "wrong" side of the road.  On arrival even the campsites were marked off
with hedged shrubs. This posed a new challenge for our camping as we can't carry the Cruiser (Tiny) over the gardening so once again we had to sleep on "the road inn".  Determined to look for another campsite the next day, we went
to bed after a cold shower, but at least clean and fresh.
The next morning we set out exploring and headed to the Kigali Genocide Memorial.
Nothing could have prepared us for what we were about to
experience during this day. If we were impressed by what we have seen and experienced the previous day, even more so now. 
The facility were well laid out and the exhibition the best we have came across ever.  We wandered and reflected through the gardens and listened to the symbolisation of it all. One million people died in this event in one hundred days. Once inside it became more real and intense with the top class exhibitions and all audio vision on display. At the children's hall one can not help to
stand in front of some of the photos and while reading the information about the likes and character of these innocent kids that were killed purely because of
being born to the "wrong" tribe or relationship be dumbstruck at this act of
cruel  to humanity.  Then moving to the next room and seeing the
hundreds of skulls of unidentified individuals..... 
Only to realise the lists of names on the wall of remembrance does not even reflect the unaccounted victims.  The original photos hanging neatly on the walls were in most cases the only ones left that the affected families had of their
loved ones.
We headed to the Nyamata and Ntarama Genocide memorials just out
of town.  At Nyamata our guide Anita,was one of the survivors of this
Genocide site.  She was 12 years old in 1994 and managed to escape and
lived with her 2 little sisters in the nearby swamps for a month.  Her
parents were not survivors of this gruesome act.  All the clothes and personal belongings are still untouched and the walls, roof and altar bears the signs and marks of this gruesome event, 10 000 victims killed in this church
compound .
Gathered in and around this church for most of them to be murdered.  The mass graves outside without tombstone or names quietly bare the evidence, and once taken into the underground tombs where rows and rows of skulls each telling their own tale of torturing by the damage, either by machete, bullet wounds or crashed marks, one can only try to relate to this cruel massacre of people. 
Anita's way of conveying the message was moving and passionate and demonstrates the power of forgiveness and the strive of a nation to be Rwandans and no more Hutus and Tutsi's and putting the past behind them.
After this emotional experience one could not help to look at all Rwandans through different eyes and wondering what were you doing when all of this happened?
Where you a perpetrator or a victim?

 How do you live with what you have done or survived?

Back in Kigali it was once again ourselves vs the GPS information to try and find alternative accommodation, too no avail. Early on Saturday morning we set out to Bourbons Cafe and happened to land up next to ex Zimbabweans who have been here for the past 5 years and although they also did not know where the Rwanda youth hostel  was (with camping) they could direct us to the Tourism Information Office who since have moved offices and were no longer as per Garmin and T4A information.  At the ORTPN offices the lady was very helpful with info and brochures and directed us by map to the Rwanda Youth Hostel where we could camp and utilise their fast Wi fi to upload all the necessary.  Unfortunately the price of visiting the Guerrillas seems to be far more expensive in Rwanda than in the neighbouring Uganda.
Overall we enjoy the experience of a first world city, the beautiful gardens and modern architecture stretched over the rolling hills that Kigali, the capital  and even more so now that we have decent accommodation.
After relaxing in the City environment we took the road to the South to visit the Nyungwe National Park, the distance being only 108km, but driving, 198 kms and a driving time of 3h50.  We left the advanced city behind and as we drove around the bendy up and downhill's the rural countryside landscape was a patchwork of agricultural activity. Rice paddies in the low riverbeds, potatoes, beans and other vegetables for household consumption, pineapples and banana plantations and as we climbed to higher altitudes coffee and tea plantations.
All neatly laid out and being worked by the farmers.  Bicycle loads of produce being carried in baskets on their heads or heavily loaded bicycles pushed up the steep uphill's.
The rainforest exceeded our expectations as the luscious greenery
can not be described and photography does not do justice to this
environment.  We stopped ever so often along the pass to take a look at the
breath taking views  which by now were starting to be covered by
clouds drifting in, making it even more beautiful.  We passed the
walkway to the origin of the Nile and the spot being the water separation
for river flows in Africa.  We reached the campsite of the park and
although the facilities were not justifying the fees remotely, the views were
out of this world and our hosts went all the way to assure our comfort.  We had a comprehensive demonstration of how to use and work a pedal dustbin as there could be no uncertainty due to language barriers. 
After sitting around the campfire they made especially for us we got into bed to wake up during the night to a downpour of note and the next morning was the first time in a long time we had to get our biffs and warm jackets out as it was so cold so close to the equator. 
Due to the still rainy conditions we abandoned the idea of the canopy walk and drove to the town of Rusizi bordering Burundi on the one side and Congo on the other. 
On our way we came along a troop of the scarce Colobus Monkeys and they were quite comfortable with a private photo shoot before moving on.
The stunning views of Lake Kivu was deceiving once you start reading about the potential danger of "exploding" and the dangerous CO2 gasses under pressure just under the surface. 
We had a lovely lunch at a little French hotel on the lakeside before moving to the border. Here you could sense the restlessness through the hustle and bustle of pedestrians crossing and on our way back to Kigali we passed the refugee camps.
Back at the campsite in Kigali we attempted the Moto moto taxis to city centre and explored the other parts of the city, some other famous buffet lunches, and paid a visit to the SA embassy to start the process of Sudan visa's. We were also happy to upgrade to IOS 7 as the internet speeds here still leaves us astonished.
 So, all washing done and packed we are ready to leave early tomorrow morning to do the northern part of the Congo Nile track up north on the lakeside of lake Kivu to Uganda and the Gorillas.
After spending time with the locals and other guests around the bonfire watching the full moon rise we set off to our last night on Rwandan
soil.  
The next morning we ordered Caffe Latte at the upmarket hotel on
the main street, only to be served with two flasks, one with coffee and the
other with milk.  
After the 24km drive to the border, all documents stamped and
ready to leave, Rui first had to provide a valid drivers license once again
 before they would open the boomgate to leave this country that pleasantly
 surprised us.
We
got onto the ferry and we watched a mother of all storms building up, could not
help to wonder why, whenever we set foot on a ferry there was always a storm
building up. We crossed the Equator
completely unaware of it after we looked so forward to doing it and after about
3 hours we set foot on land in Entebe.
Much to our surprise, in the town of Entebbe you can at any given time spot at least one UN vehicle and always a volunteer of some or other organization. 
I would suppose it is due to the above that we found this part of Uganda
to be more expensive than the western part.  We drove to Entebe airport to see the famous plane of the movie Operation Entebbe and were surprised by the fleet of UN vehicles, all the latest, biggest and newest models, not even to speak about the planes and helicopters occupying one part of the airport.
After a drive to Kampala we decided to stay at Entebbe and move from here to
Jinja.  The city traffic seems worse than the famous Dar Es Salaam traffic.




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Zanzibar! 
On our wish list for a long time and now reality! 
Early morning we got up and did the final touches before leaving the Cruiser behind, a bit concerned as it would be the first in 4 months that we won't be sleeping in the cruiser, but all fridges running and double checking the electricity connections we left to see if the Tucktuck we booked was waiting at reception. We hopped in and experienced these fearless guys driving style from the backseat and all too soon we were dropped of at the ferry to cross the bay to Dar, from here we had to do a short walk to the ferry to take us to Zanzibar.  It was still early morning and everybody was on their way to school and
work.  First time in almost 4 months that we were part of the rush hour, and then in a complete different capacity, and overall by foot on a ferry with a backpack on the back.
We bought our tickets after eluding all the scouts and entered the luxurious
Kilimanjaro IV to sit back in air-conditioned seats to watch a Leon Schuster
movie on the big screen. We were probably the two people on board that could
relate best to the scenes and humour.  We had our passports stamped once
set foot on Zanzibar and immediately were over swamped by taxi drivers and
guides all too willing to show or take us places on the island. 
We decided to first take a look around on our own before we should phone Moudy from the Hiliki house guesthouse to come fetch us. We strolled through the market and sat down for a cup of spice tea and spice coffee and some pancakes for breakfast on pavement cafe and watching the colourful bypass of scooters, pedestrians, school kids, bicycles, taxis and loaded trucks. The spice tea and pancakes went off well, but Rui could not manage to drink the spice coffee, and knowing him he can stomach almost anything with a coffee tag to it.  We headed back to the docks and gave our host a call to fetch us.  By now it was uncomfortably hot and we were still carrying all our luggage.  We spotted a lovely piece of shade next to a wall and sat down only to be bombed on by the dove above.  Lesson learnt: if it looks to good  to be true it is to good
to be true. We moved over to the sunny side of the street only to watch the next
victims two Muslim ladies to move into the cosy shady spot. Hehehehe!( Same
birds on top).
As we drove through the streets of Zanzibar I could just see us landing up in some dodgy place, so when we stopped in front of the striking blue doors opposite the Victorian gardens we were pleasantly surprised, and even more
so when we stepped inside.  Myself were even excited about sleeping in a real bed, although we have been sleeping very comfortable up till now.  We wandered through Stonetown and answered to repeated "Jambo's" and "karibu's" the people of Zanzibar surely want to make sure you feel welcome. The little shops were stocked with all the same novelties and paintings and you have to negotiate the price of every article.  Back at the guesthouse we booked dinner at the well known Monsoons with the live music show the next night and a spice tour for the next day. 
After the scorching heat the air conditioned room was like a piece of heaven and well rested we headed out for dinner. Our choice of restaurant was Archipelago and by luck we had it good. We ordered calamari with Pilau rice, chicken and rice and granadilla crème Brule with very good spice tea and espresso and could not have hoped for a more tasty meal.  We walked back doing some night time photography through quiet streets and feeling so safe and blessed to be here.
Our accommodation included breakfast and after a variety of tasty fruit we came to meet for the first time with white eggs. The yokes are completely white, so the only colour in an omelette would be the bit of browning.  But still an egg taste like an egg.  
We left for our spice tour and our well spoken guide took us via the "bububoo" road through the highest point of this island from where you can see the sea on all sides to the spice farm. We smelled, touched and tasted all, ginger,
nutmeg, chocolate, cinnamon, lemon grass, cloves, jackfruit, citrus, and those
that I can't even recall any more. In between his helpers would "surprise" us
with rings, bangles, watches, ties, fans and sunglasses made from coconut palm
leaves. But, nothing comes for free and they are not shy to ask for a donation,
not only for themselves but also their friends with them.
Back at the guesthouse, while enjoying a drink upstairs we met a couple from France, Sophie and Alain and we all went to dinner where we had a very enjoyable evening chatting and listening to the musicians playing traditional
instruments.
The next morning after a hearty breakfast we took a final stroll through the fish market, meat market, fresh produces and Stonetown we had our last lunch and headed back to Dar es Salaam.  We arrived after a choppy ride back just in time to hit the late afternoon peak traffic back and were so happy to find all in tact "at home" The full moon was rising over the ocean and the packed beaches were slowly running empty after the Eid festivals while we were excitingly downloading all our Zanzibar photos.

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We entered our third country Tanzania through Kasumulu and soon noticed Tanzania to be a wealthier country to Malawi. The bicycles were replaced by motorcycles, the minibuses by busses and the woman's apparel was all
shiny.  We travelled through luscious tea plantations and after the town of Tukuyu we climbed through thick mist to a height of 2600 m above sea-level with a visibility of about 5meters.  
We watched our first sunset on Tanzanian soil from Utengele Coffee estate and had some of the best coffee so far. 
The next morning we left to sort out internet connections and get a few things we needed. After three hours in a container shop and after the shop assistant changed the phone menu to Swahili and not being able to change it back Rui got so upset with him he threatened in killing him, so eventually we left without internet.  At the market we realized they were trying to rip us off with Mzungu(Swahili for white man) prices and left Mbeya without anything done on the list, but with our money in our pockets.  Along the road we bought some vegetables and headed for The Old Farmhouse at Kisolanza Farm Iringa with Richard and Sophie following.
We got stopped twice by traffic police looking for reasons to get paid but one just wanted to chat about Madiba and the next one really wanted to know if we were going to pay the fine, but by now we have learned to speak to them and ask them a question before they get a chance to speak.  So in this case we
pleaded to be completely lost.  Eventually they gave up and we drove off, not even Richard and Sophie gave them anything.
What a nice surprise we had at Kisolanza, 6 fellow South Africans camping there! We met up with Arno and Elize from Arnizego2 Africa  .  We went for the best 3 course meal we had in 3 months and enjoyed good company. 
We stocked up on chocolate brownies, jam tarts and home  baked breads.
We headed north and camped at Riverside lodge close to the town of Iringa, about 40 Americans were at this camp and they were all on a three month course learning Swahili. 
Heading for Dar es Salaam with Zanzibar in mind we stayed over at Tan Swiss
camp at Mikumi and met an Austrian couple which seems to be doing the same route as us.  We drove through the Mikumi wildlife Reserve and had a good laugh at the road kill fines, but were stunned at the prices they charge for non
citizens 100USD for 2 persons and the vehicle for single entry.  On the free drive through we saw very little game, 3 giraffes, two warthog and a few impala.  We decided to skip the Tanzanian parks purely because of the rip off of tourists.
At Morogoro we arrived at lunchtime only to find most of the shops to be closed and the exceptions that was open to be well stocked but very expensive.  We called it a day a  far as travelling was concerned and booked into Kola Hotel' campsite where we  once again met up with the Austrians of the previous night for whom everything with the exception of beer seemed to be expensive.  The owner of the hotel came around ever so often to find if we were still happy and comfortable although there was no electricity or hot water.  We camped at the foot of the beautiful  mountains and it almost felt as if we were in the Cape province.
We made an early start the next morning and headed for Dar Es Salaam.  All geared and worked up for the traffic we were pleasantly surprised with this city.
Shopping centres, Shoprites, Games and even Woolworths and KFC.  We decided to head to the south and base ourselves there for a while and to visit
Zanzibar.  We crossed with a decent size ferry and about 8kms south of Dar
came to Sunrise Beach Hotel with a campsite. We found the beach to be a piece of paradise and the hotel all we could have hoped for. Here we spent the time we awaited to go to Zanzibar as there was 2 public holidays coming up. We visited
Dar and got caught up in traffic jams where drivers would get out of their
vehicles to inspect the severity of the congestion, find a solutions of who
should drive and who should wait and went sightseeing through the city.  By
now it started to get annoying to negotiate each and every price of what ever
you want to buy and once decided and paid they wanted some more money because whites must pay more. Never experienced such discrimination.  We both only wanted to buy or eat from a shop / restaurant where you could see what you are letting yourself in for.  We  thoroughly enjoyed our stay, swam in
turquoise sea, walked on sandy white beaches and had drinks at the beach bar at night. We were awaiting the time for Zanzibar.
After once again stocking up at a shop where you can see the prices and don't need to negotiate we left to Bagamoyo, north of Dar along the coast.  This town used to be a German post and the ruins left dated from the slave trading days. The camping did not appeal and we decided to move on to Peponi beach.  We made the mistake of calculating kms and not driving time and we had to do the last 40 kms of horrendous roads in the dark. Little villages all along
the road with kids running and playing in the road, pedestrians walking and the ever present motorbikes and taxi all dodging the potholes, some with lights and others without lights.  We were all to happy to arrive safely at Peponi Beach
Resort and the next morning could not believe our eyes as it was low tide and
the sea was a good 1000meters from the beach with blackish claylike sand
covering shallow coral.  We spent the day doing our washing as by now we
did not have any clean clothes left and once again a thank you to Douglas for
the Sputnik.  We lingered around the pool and booked ourselves a snorkel
trip for the next day.
Early morning we were all ready to go only to find out it will only be the two of us.  We had the best snorkelling on two reefs with amazing coral and a big variety of tropical fish.  The
underwater world and clear visibility left us stunned, but you can already spot
the damage done by the dynamite fishing that happens all along the coast.
The resort packed lunch and our skipper took us to a sand island where the crew set up shade on the little island. We had crab sandwiches and prawn, mango and avo salad. All around us the turquoise sea in different shades
that not even the cameras would pick up. After lunch we lingered along in the luke warm seawater and reluctantly getting back to the dhow Peppi.  As we set sails back to mainland the tide was coming in and washed away our footprints. This will always be one of our favourite memories, the day we had an island for
ourselves. We should have proclaimed it and called it Ruje island.
All too soon we had to move on this time towards Kilimanjaro and we drove with the sisal plantations on the left and the Usamburu mountain range on the right.
We turned off, into the mountains and did a windy pass climbing 1500 meters in about 10 km with trucks and busses speeding in both directions. We saw a sign Irente view point hotel and as we were still early decided to pop in for a cup of coffee. We came to a lovely hotel with stunning views but the camping spot looked not so hot, we asked if we couldn't park in the parking area seeing we have no camp to set up and they agreed and we had the most beautiful view and sunset.  Here we went for a guided tour through the village and forest to another viewpoint. As Rui said, thank goodness we decided on the three hour tour and not the 5hour one as we will already need 5hours to recover.  This is serious mountainous area.  While we were away Tiny got his Tanzanian tattoo of 3 Maasai. We now realised how privileged we are to be doing this trip as
every day brings new surprises.
After once again stocking up at a shop where you can see the prices and don't need to negotiate we left to Bagamoyo, north of Dar along the coast.  This town
used to be a German post and the ruins left dated from the slave trading 
days. The camping did not appeal and we decided to move on to Peponi
beach.  We made the mistake of calculating kms and not driving time and we
had to do the last 40 kms of horrendous roads in the dark. Little
villages all along the road with kids running and playing in the road, pedestrians walking and the ever present motorbikes and taxis all dodging the potholes, some with lights and others without lights.  We were all to happy to arrive safely at Peponi Beach Resort and the next morning could not believe our eyes as it was low tide and the sea was a good 1000 meters from the beach with blackish claylike sand covering shallow coral. 
We spent the day doing our washing as by now we did not have any clean clothes left and once again  thanks to Douglas for the Sputnik.  We lingered around the pool and booked ourselves a snorkel trip for the next day.
Early morning we were all ready to go only to find out it will only be the two of us.  We had the best snorkelling on two reefs with amazing coral and a big variety of tropical fish.  The underwater world and clear visibility left us
stunned, but you can already spot the damage done by the dynamite fishing that happens all along the coast.
The resort packed lunch and our skipper took us to a sand island where the crew set up shade on the little island. We had crab sandwiches and prawn, mango and avo salad. All around us the turquoise sea in different shades
that not even the cameras would pick up. After lunch we lingered along in the
luke warm seawater and reluctantly get ting back to the dhow Peppi.  As we set sails back to mainland the tide was coming in and washed away our footprints. This will always be one of our favourite memories, the day we had an island for ourselves. (We should have proclaimed it and called it Ruje island.)
All too soon we had to move on this time towards Kilimanjaro and we drove with the sisal plantations on the left and the Usamburu mountain range on the right.  We turned off into the mountains and did a windy pass climbing 1500 meters in about 10 km with trucks and busses speeding in both directions. We saw a sign Irente view point hotel and as we were still early decided to pop in for a cup of coffee. We came to a lovely hotel with stunning views but the camping spot looked not so hot, we asked if we could park in the parking area seeing we have no camp to set up and they agreed and we had the most beautiful view and sunset.  Here we went for a guided tour through the village and forest to another viewpoint. As Rui said, thank goodness we decided on the three hour tour and not the 5 hour one as we will already need 5 hours to recover.  This is serious mountainous area. 
While we were away
Tiny got his Tanzanian tattoo of 3 Maasai. We now realised how privileged we are to be doing this trip as every day brings new surprises.  The landscape changed dramatically and we drove along the never ending Sisal plantations.  By referral we headed to Lake Chala through a terrible gravel road, after turning at the Kenyan border and being escorted to the right turnoff by a Tanzanian traffic officer speeding ahead on his motorbike without helmet. Upon arrival they charged top class prices for 3rd class facilities, so we turned back and headed for Moshi. What seemed to be camping on the GPS and maps either did not exist any longer or did not do camping.  Eventually we came to Keys Hotel Annex where we inspected the campsite and after approval went to Reception to book in, only to find out the campsite has been closed due to no electricity.  By now it was getting dark and we negotiated to sleep in the
parking lot with access to room 13 for ablution facilities at a reasonable price. We had supper and soon another "camper" pulled in next to us and pitched his rooftop tent. 
We woke up the next morning with breath taking views of a cloudless Kilimanjaro and after having a cup of coffee with our fellow camper ( Dave on his way south) in the luscious hotel gardens we went to explore the town.  We were pleasantly surprised with the hustle and bustle and tried to arrange a Masai tour but being only two people the operators were not interested in giving us discount and we were not interested in paying the exorbitant prices. From the coffee shop veranda Rui bought 3 pairs of Real Madrid short socks, he was first offered second hand socks and very offended negotiated new socks. 
We also went for a haircut at a barbershop at 19h30 at night.  After snipping halfway the hairdresser admitted he cuts by passion and has no formal qualification.  He did however have a lot of jewellery and after showing us photos of his whole family in their Indian attire, and paying 6 times more than the locals we left with our new hairstyles back to the hotel.  They offered us space in the campsite as the electricity was repaired, but we chose the same facilities as the previous night.  Moshi is  bustling well to do town with big coffee plantations and a lot of Europeans passing through. We left to Arusha and found this town with its lovely new buildings and Saturday morning bustling quite surprising.  We filled the gas bottles and visited a Safari camping
equipment shop. We found the stove we were looking for and negotiated an better price with the Indian shopkeeper (we are getting better, even negotiating a better price in a shop with priced items) and offered him our primus stove as a trade in.  Brand new never used!  And he gave us more than the R70 we
paid.  We set off to Masai camp where we one again tried to book a tour to
no avail. Rui started the brand new stove with the paraffin we had and
almost burn the campsite down, we made a scramble for the fire extinguisher and put the fire out. Read the instructions and headed back to
town to buy petrol as the instructions on the packaging did not mention paraffin.  This time it worked.  We hardly slept That Saturday night as the Karaoke and disco music stopped at 05h30! Too much! 
Exhausted and irritated we spend Sunday cleaning out the car and do all the washing.  By now I realised my personal weaknesses was not so much where I expected it to be, but I missed home and became really teary and negotiated with Rui to make turns with driving. I turned down his offer to return home for a week and Monday morning all packed and cleaned we set sail.  Myself at the steer. 
With just the last thins to buy we each had a meat pie at an upmarket shopping
mall and decided to head to Babati when disaster striked. 
At a traffic circle an oncoming vehicle crashed into our rear back side with me at the wheel. Within the first 3kms of me driving, and to top it all the other car
speeded away.  We returned to Moshi where there is a Toyota approved agent
and had the wheel balanced, diff checked out, but according to them no further
damage, but no rear fender cover.  By now we were pushed to the limits and
exhausted.  Another "karibu" from any Tanzanian and we would possibly
attack or ride him over. We reached another campsite in Arusha which seemed
to be better than the Masai campsite and after supper had a long discussion
with the manager Robert.  
Once again it became clear that the locals do not see any harm in charging you more than fellow africans because you are white,and because you are white, you must be rich. 
We never experienced discrimination like this before and trying to explain to them we are born and bred Africans as well went beyond them. 
We made the decision that in spite of our 90 day visas to move on to Rwanda and Uganda. Early the next morning we tackled the long road, bumpy, roadwork's and traffic cops at every village stopping us to say "hi" or check the drivers license.  As if we could drive 12 000kms without a valid license..At the
town of Singida we decided to call it a day and started to look for
accommodation.  No camping!, but a Catholic guest house where we could
share a room with chicken of all sorts for dinner.  We explored further and
Rui was in a better state of mind today so
he really negotiated us a comfortable room WITH DSTV at a cheaper price than our camping budget. Breakfast included!  All to soon we were relaxing and watching DSTV.  if all goes according to plan we will cross the border to
Rwanda and be heading to Kigali with new challenges and surprises in two days time.  After a hearty buffet breakfast of fruit, meat broth, "vetkoek" and bread we hit the road early morning and travel through vast open spaces of land with rock formations reminding us of the Aus and Klein Aus of Namibia.  We planned to pushed to as close to the border As possible and planned around the German Boma for camping in Biharamulo. Our expectations were German quality accommodation.
Lets just say ou dreams were shattered by the dilapidated building which
now gets used as  conference centre.  We went for a drive as all
conference goers were lying around on the little lawns left having lunch at
16h00 and stopped near a dam watching herders bringing their long horned cattle for a drink, the herding dog swam and then the men had a bath while we were having a cup of coffee along the roadside. 
We drove to Kigodi nature reserve and although the T4A state armed escort and very bad road the Chinese were almost finished with a lovely new tarmac and the armed escort has turned into two booms manned by civilian clothed policeman with AK47's, the natural forest was dense and luscious  green and really made the drive worth while in this beautiful mountainous area. We woke up to the last sunrise on Tanzanian soil with mixed emotions,  will we miss the all round Karibo(welcome)? Or will we be relieved to just say "safari" ?

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